Don’t tell the lads in Dublin, but my Irish husband doesn’t love Guinness. 

He’s not against it, per se, but we live in Ottawa, and when our Canadian friends learn of his heritage, they always serve him the proverbial pint of gat. If that’s not enough, Guinness makes its way into everything, and I mean everything, on Irish pub menus here. You’ll find the black stuff in soups, desserts and the ubiquitous Irish stew. Much like Guinness itself, my beloved doesn’t relish Irish stew. Now, he doesn’t actually dislike it, he’s just grown long tired of it—especially on St. Patrick’s Day when it’s nearly impossible to escape. He wishes that Irish cuisine here was approached with fewer clichés and more creativity—and I don’t blame him one bit. 

For years, we’ve shunned Guinness and Irish stew (and green beer, neon green cupcakes and shamrock-shaped cookies) on St. Patrick’s Day in favor of something much more down to earth—and sea. Salmon with apple cider glaze has become our go-to dish on the holiday and any other time we’re craving Irish flavors. 

I bet our friends and family in Ireland would look at me slightly askance if I told them that this is my go-to Irish dish. But Ireland produces phenomenal seafood, and it’s where I’ve had the best salmon of my life. As a young backpacker (long before I had thoughts of matrimony with a chap boasting dual citizenship), I spent ample time in rural Ireland, and my budget didn’t cover much more than homemade bread and jam. But when I scrounged up the money for a proper meal, I splurged on salmon. I’ll never forget a sopping wet day on southern Ireland’s Cape Clear Island where I took refuge from the rain in a pub, biding my time until my bed-and-breakfast host finished work for the day (he was the ferry captain, so I really couldn’t go anywhere until the boat docked for the night). I munched on ham-and-cheese toasties over lunch and, come evening, when the dinner menu offered up thick planks of grilled salmon, everyone in the building knew my name. I slept well that night, just like I did a few weeks later on a visit to Kilrush, escaping a miserable night of bad company at the hostel in favor of visiting a proper restaurant serving up hot salmon and potatoes. 

With these memories (and my spouse’s allergy to shellfish), I knew we had our main ingredient—but how could we serve it? In Canada, maple syrup is a popular ingredient in salmon dishes, but you’ll rarely see it on Irish menus. What else could I use that was naturally sweet? Apple cider was my solution. There are apple orchards all across Ireland, many growing heirloom varieties, and they produce delicious fresh cider. There are similar growers near our Canadian home, and I knew I could get the quality I craved. Knowing that a nearby grocer sold imported Irish butter was the final piece I needed to bring together the dish that is my family’s ultimate bicultural comfort dish. 

I love using wild salmon for this recipe. The flavor is much richer. However, it’s worth noting that wild salmon is leaner than farmed (all that swimming against the current!). Thus, it’s important not to overcook it to prevent dryness—and to be generous with the butter! The apple cider thickens into a sweet, fresh, tangy glaze as it simmers. Leeks, whole-grain mustard and fresh herbs round things out beautifully. Any leftover sauce is wonderful with mashed potatoes. We are thrilled to have a recipe made with the ingredients you’d find in any Irish home, not just the dishes served in touristy pubs. It might not scream St. Patrick’s Day to everyone else, but it sure works for us. I can’t help but think that, in St. Patrick’s time, Ireland was filled with people who ate fish, wild herbs and orchard produce all the time. Perhaps this homey, humble combination is just right after all.