Frizzy hair is hard to manage. Here’s how to tame your mane
If you have naturally curvy or wavy hair, you will be used to being told how lovely it is.
But in reality, it can be hard to tame.
The usual rise in humidity at this time of year means maintaining you hair sans frizz is easier said than done.
“Frizz occurs when the hair cuticle becomes rough and lifted, allowing moisture from the air to penetrate the hair shaft,” explains British hairdresser of the year and Toni & Guy global creative director, Cos Sakkas.
“With the mix of humidity and unpredictable weather it can be worse as we head into spring.”
We hear from leading hair stylists and trichologists on how to get frizz-free hair this spring.
What causes frizz?
“Humidity or a damp rainy day can be a culprit for frizz,” explains trichologist and owner of Philip Kingsley, Anabel Kingsley.
“When hair gets wet, the hydrogen bonds that help hold it in shape are temporarily broken. This doesn’t damage your strands – they’re immediately reset when your hair dries!”
When dry hair absorbs moisture, it swells up, instead of laying flat. This is what causes frizz during the hotter and wetter months – cue April showers!
While frizz can often be down to your environment, how much it impacts your hair is down to genetics.
“How frizz-prone your hair is depends on its natural structure – either straight, wavy or curly – and how porous it is, how easily moisture enters and exits your hair shaft,” explains Kingsley.
How hair washing affects frizz
You may think it’s just the humid weather that causes frizz, but how your hair reacts starts with how you wash it.
“Over-washing with harsh shampoos can leave a rough hair texture,” explains Sakkas. “To maintain hydration while keeping frizz at bay, it’s best to wash hair two to three times a week with a gentle, sulphate-free shampoo.
“Also avoid using hot water on your hair, lukewarm water is better for the hair and scalp and will also prevent colour fading.”
Similarly, your shampoo and conditioner is crucial for preventing frizz.
“A shampoo formulated for coarse or coiled hair textures is often going to be far too nourishing and not cleansing enough for someone that has fine, textured hair as they require much lighter-weight products,” says Kingsley.
“Your conditioner is even more important as this is what provides moisture (hydration) and nourishment to your strands. It also smooths and seals the hair cuticle, reducing frizz.
OGX Keratin Smoothing Oil Shampoo, £4.72 (was £9.45), Waitrose
OGX Biotin & Collagen Conditioner, £4.20 (was £8.40), Waitrose
How you should be drying your hair
Unsurprisingly, how you dry your hair can have just as much an impact on frizz as washing and styling.
Both towel and blow drying can cause friction to the cuticle. “Traditional towels can create rough up the cuticle,” explains the Princess of Wales’s London-based hair stylist Richard Ward.
“Instead use a microfibre towel or a cotton t-shirt instead to gently blot – not rub – excess water.
“And blow drying, if done incorrectly without a diffuser or heat protectant, can make frizz worse,” he says. “Always use a heat protectant and a low-heat setting and point the nozzle downward to smooth the cuticle. A boar bristle brush can also help tame frizz.”
If you have the time however, the best way to avoid frizz is allowing your hair to air dry.
“Air drying can help reduce frizz if done correctly,” says Ward. “Just apply a leave-in conditioner and avoid touching your hair too much as it dries.”
Air drying also helps maintain and keep the natural curls and waves of your hair in place.
TRESemme Heat Defence Style Spray, £3.97 (was £5.95), Just My Look
Hask Argan Oil Repairing 5-In-1 Leave-In Conditioning Spray, £4.99 (was £7.49), Just My Look
Salon treatments for long-term frizz control
If you find that no matter what home remedies you use, you’re still having trouble with frizz, the experts say there are some in-salon treatments that can help.
“Keratin treatments can make hair more manageable, especially if your hair is particularly frizzy, thick and unruly,” says Kingsley.
“For those who constantly use heat on their hair, they notice that once having a keratin treatment undertaken, their drying time is reduced.
“However, it is important to note that although visually the individual may feel that their hair benefits from this treatment, there can be a trade-off with hair health as this can impact on fibre integrity.”
If you’re worried about long-term hair health, opting for a weekly hair mask may be the better option.
But it’s not just hair products that contribute to frizz, but your daily habits. “You need to protect hair from heat and visit the salon for regular trims to get rid of split ends, which can make frizzy hair look even worse,” explains Sakkas.
“It’s also important to stay hydrated – what you put in your body shows through your hair, so plenty of water and a good, balanced diet are really important.”
LABEL.M M-Plex Bond Repairing Miracle Mask, £39, Toni & Guy
The best products to control frizz and avoid grease
The best products to combat frizz are ones that combat water.
“Use products that will coat the cuticle with a hydrophobic (water-repelling) layer,” says Kingsley.
“This not only keeps moisture out, preventing hair from becoming frizz, it helps to lock moisture into your strands so they remain hydrated.”
Kingsley also notes that when it comes to frizz, you don’t need to rule out infamous silicones.
“Silicones get a bad reputation but there are so many types of silicones and they can provide amazing styling benefits, especially where frizz is concerned,” she says.
Whilst oils and serums are often sold to us as the miracle frizz-control products, they can often leave our hair greasy and limp instead.
“To avoid greasiness, start with a pea-sized amount, warming it between your palms before applying to mid-lengths and ends,” explains Ward.
“Avoid the roots, as this can weigh hair down. You can use them on damp or dry hair for added shine and frizz control.”
Kérastase Elixir Ultime L’Huile Originale Hair Oil New, £19.60 (was £28), Just My Look
Philip Kingsley Frizz-Fighting Gloss Smoothing Serum, £25
