
Lita Marylebone Review — Mediterranean Radiance Gets a Tantalizing, Animated West End Makeover
Stumbling upon its essentially elegant wood and glass entrance on a casual weekend walk will be enough for you to be persuaded by Lita Marylebone’s vibrant offering. Situated a short stroll from Baker Street on a lively red-brick road in London’s West End, the modern bistro’s softly glowing atmosphere spills outdoors come the night, allowing passersby to catch a glimpse into its incessant comings and goings and, more often than not, luring them in. Named after a diminutive for abuela (‘grandmother’ in Spanish), Lita Marylebone draws on the intimacy of family life to craft a Mediterranean-inspired dining experience with conviviality at its core. Still, if its animated ambiance can be sneakily caught even from the outside, it’s the food and the energy you can savor within it that will keep you coming back — mark my words.
The brainchild of Canadian-born restaurateur Daniel Koukarskikh and Irish Head Chef Luke Ahearne, Lita Marylebone opened just over a year ago, but its combination of masterfully revisited Southern European staples and cosmopolitan savoir-faire has already proved winning. From the Cantabrian-topped, garlicky pan con tomate (‘bread with tomatoes’), an afternoon snack or merenda already impressed in the memory of most Andalucian and Italian people, to the pleasantly savory salad of culatello ham, walnuts, ricotta, and radicchio, the earthy, comforting Aylesbury duck ragu strozzapreti, and the many artistically presented, exquisite crudo (‘raw fish’) dishes, the hotspot knows how to assemble seemingly simple ingredients into layered-in-flavors, harmonious masterpieces that unfold at every bite.
In February, only 11 months since launching, the eatery was awarded its first Michelin Star, an accolade that, reflecting the high degree of sophistication achieved by both its gastronomic offering alone and the wider guest experience, makes Lita Marylebone one of the best London restaurants to try this year.
Situated on one of the buzziest and most scenic streets of London’s West End, Lita Marylebone boasts plenty of space for al fresco dining now that the good season is back.
(Image credit: Tom Bird. Design: B3 Designers)
When I arrive at 6:30 PM on a Tuesday evening, dinner service is already in full swing. Seated on a sage green velvet stool at the terracotta travertine bar counter opposite its entrance, I can see the whole of Lita Marylebone’s staff abuzz with activity. Before me, cocktails are being mixed and wine glasses poured. All around, a fantastical, at times humorous, selection of artworks — including British painter Jack Penny‘s whimsical depiction of the chaoticness of hospitality life, All Fours (2023), part of his Fast Food series, and Russian artist Zarina Groevaya‘s bespoke contribution to the restaurant’s eight-cover private dining room, a pink-drenched, playfully cartoony rendition of its culinary feasts — contrast the otherwise neutral, sandy color scheme of the space.
Whether dining at the mismatched round (or square) tables at my back, which, I learn, are restored antique pieces by Guillerme et Chambron, cocooned in one of the Paris-style decor blood-orange mohair fabric banquettes of Lita Marylebone’s booths, all topped with flowy textile pendant lamps and shining in sleek brass details, or catching the chef’s team in action up-close while eating right next to one of its open-fire cooking stations, there really isn’t anyone or anything I can’t keep my eyes on from my lucky spot. It isn’t a coincidence.
“When we first started talking about Lita, we knew what we needed was a strong story that defined the concept,” B3 Designers, the Clerkenwell-based studio that envisioned the eatery’s interiors, tell me over an email exchange the day after my visit. To feed into its deeply personal vision, “we worked to create a design that drew inspiration from just that — the warmth of a family setting with an open layout.” Judging by the ease with which the dining crowd makes Lita Marylebone into their living room for a night (I mean, who wouldn’t, given the lavish patina of it?), I believe they have succeeded. Just like in the case of Head Chef Luke Ahearne’s sculpturally assembled, colorful plates, which are obtained from the freshest, seasonal British and Italian ingredients and brought to life through enterprising culinary flair, the secret to its ambiance “lies in the details,” restaurateur Daniel Koukarskikh reminds me on the tour of the eatery that precedes my meal.
To echo the rustic decor of a country house, “the floor has been laid with reclaimed terracotta tiles in a herringbone pattern, while exposed wooden joists run across the ceiling,” the B3 Designers team explains. Housed within a thoroughly renovated Victorian terrace, Lita Marylebone has the low-rise, expansive structure and inherently tactile feel of traditional Spanish masías (‘rural, isolated houses’) but a polish so satiny it could only be found in London’s West End. The walls, distressed and textured for a rough paint effect, hint at the evolution of “a place that has aged gracefully, while the bespoke lighting’s bronze and antique brass details give off a soft glow you’d expect to find in your grandmother’s house”.
Lita Marylebone’s retro-inspired finishes aren’t the only aspects of the restaurant to convey the lived-in essence of the home. Inhabiting its retro-fueled cabinetry are a series of one-off collectibles — think anything from quirky ceramics and glassware to shiny espresso cups, silver napkin holders, books, art prints, and even actual postcards — that counter the exclusiveness of restaurant dining with a much more relaxed, familial air. On the shelves surrounding the three chef’s counters, pastel-shaded pickled vegetables are on display in old-style glass jars. Meanwhile in the walk-in wine cellar, “a beautiful piece of joinery that you’d likely see in a house of this kind”, and Daniel Koukarskikh’s go-to, air-conditioned “refuge from the bustle of busy nights”, a handpicked selection of Mediterranean wine is stored next to a worktop for Head Sommelier Kristina Gladilina.
Also belonging here as a tucked-away secret is Lita Marylebone’s very own talisman — “a horseshoe once worn by the winner of the 1921 Grand National, ridden by legendary Welsh jockey Dick Rees and trained by George Poole for owner Malcolm McAlpine,” the restaurateur tells me as we proceed to step inside. Again, considering the eatery’s nearly-instant Michelin Star, it must have definitely brought them good luck, though not even the most superstitious of guests would think that’s enough to secure anyone the accolade, and the food at Lita Marylebone is little short of divine.
“We worked to create a design that drew inspiration from just that — the warmth of a family setting with an open layout.”
(Image credit: Tom Bird. Design: B3 Designers)
Be it only for the soul-nourishing, straight-from-the-sea taste of the Fuentes Bluefin tuna, corno peppers, coriander, and capers, and the citrussy scallops starters, I would have totally tricked myself into thinking I had finally left London for some balmier coastal destination — wishful thinking, I know. The side of roast Italian red peppers, served cold and drenched in a bittersweet dressing of vinegar and olive oil, is as smokey, delicious, and refreshing as my own mom’s (big pass). The garlicked flesh of the langoustines is enough for you to get addicted to it, but too little not to leave you craving for more, which is exactly what the monkfish is there for — to delight you with its crisped-to-perfection skin and tender meat, soaked in a bed of gravy goodness.
Had it not been for my gluten intolerant stomach, I would have given in to Head Chef Luke Ahearne’s cheerfully enthusiastic description of his just-remodeled strawberry mille-feuille. Before I know it, though, it gets pretty late, so panicking over my choice, I settle for an equally moreish but pretty straightforward rhubarb sorbet.
How is it nearly 10 PM? You tell me! What’s certain is that Lita Marylebone’s bar counter, built from reddish sapele timber and much lower down compared to usual models, is the ideal place to gather around, listen to, or tell stories — much like you’d do in the comfort of your home. And who can blame me if that’s what I have done all evening?