This time of year, you might see fresh morel mushrooms pop up at farmers markets and on restaurant menus. But what exactly are these funky-looking fungi? 

Morels are wild mushrooms with distinctive ridged caps that resemble honeycombs. They comprise a range of species that taxonomists have argued over ever since Christiaan Hendrik Persoon classified Morchella esculenta (the yellow morel, or common morel) in 1794. Different species are commonly referred to by color: yellows, blacks, greys, blondes, and whites. All are considered delicacies in mushroom circles.

“The fascination with morels comes from several angles,” says chef-forager Iulian Fortu, a partner in Washington, D.C.’s Poplar and owner of Arcadia Venture, a purveyor of wild and cultivated mushrooms. “Morels are unique in the edible mushroom world.”

Fortu identifies several reasons that mushroom connoisseurs are enamored with them.

Why chefs love morel mushrooms

They’re first

Depending on where you live, you might find fresh morels between March and June. “The morel is the first mushroom of the year in most parts of the country,” says Fortu. ”After a long winter and a lack of variety in ingredients, chefs flock to morels as an ephemeral luxury.” 

Any chef interested in seasonal cooking wants morels in spring, he adds. “Morels go so well with spring ingredients like asparagus, ramps, nettles, fiddleheads, and bitter greens.” 

They’re unique

“Morels don’t look like anything else and have a flavor unlike any other mushroom,” says Fortu. “Depending on the type of morel, it can range from buttery to meaty, nutty, or smoky.” Unlike other mushrooms with umbrella-like caps, morels have vertical caps that are hollow inside. This makes them suitable for halving lengthwise and stuffing, or for slicing into attractive rings.

They’re wild

Like porcinis, matsutakes, chanterelles, and other coveted mushrooms, morels are extremely difficult to cultivate. Different morel species have a symbiotic relationship with particular types of trees; some varieties even flourish in the first few springs after a wildfire. Morels are also very perishable, which makes them difficult to transport. Although China cultivates morels commercially, these wild mushrooms are typically hand-picked in other parts of the world. They can also be quite expensive, upwards of $40 per pound. 

Where to find morel mushrooms

Morels grow throughout most of the country, with the greatest concentration in the Midwest, Pacific Northwest, and Northeast. Given their symbiotic relationship with trees like pine, ash, sycamore, and elm, they’re often found in wooded areas with moist environments, particularly where there have been forest fires in the last few years.

Forage with caution, though. A toxic mushroom known as “false morel” (foragers call it “red” or “beefsteak”) can easily be confused for morels. A better bet is to look for morels at farmers markets, specialty stores, and reputable online sellers. Fortu recommends Morel Masters, Seminalia, and his own Arcadia Venture.

How to buy and store morels

Fresh morels should be firm and springy, with a strong earthy aroma. Avoid any with stems that are dried out, slimy, or moldy, or with tips that are flaking apart. One of the biggest things to check for is bugs. Morels are hollow and have many ridges, and tend to have bugs or bug eggs. 

“Look at morels and see if there are any tiny white things on the outside,” says Fortu. “One or two bugs is no big deal, but a mushroom infested with them is no longer good.” Morels should be soaked in water before cooking to release any sand, dirt, bugs, and bug eggs. Soak them for up to an hour in ice water, changing the water every so often. Pat them dry with paper towels or a dish towel before cooking or storing. Stored in small brown paper bags in the refrigerator (never use plastic), just-picked morels can last for up to a week.

Fresh vs. dried morels

More than almost any other wild mushroom, dried morels closely resemble fresh when reconstituted. Sourcing is key, however. “Dried morels are only good if the fresh product is good,” says Fortu. “The small bags in most grocery stores are exorbitantly priced and not of the best quality. If you get them from reputable foragers or wild food companies, they will be much better.”

It takes about 10 pounds of fresh morels to produce one pound of dried morels, says Fortu. Soak dried morels for at least 30 minutes in hot tap water to ensure they have a similar texture to fresh. Strain the water through a very fine strainer or coffee filter to use in any dish that calls for water or broth, such as pasta sauce, risotto, or a wild mushroom paella.

How to cook with morels

Morels can be toxic when raw or partially cooked. Be sure to cook them thoroughly, at least five minutes if you sauté or boil them, and at least 10 minutes if you steam or simmer them. Here are some of our favorite ways to cook this spring delicacy.