The scent of frying oil hits you first. Then, a cloud of steam. It’s a sweaty experience, especially in the height of summer. But none of that deters the throngs of diners and shoppers who fill the tiny streets of La Vucciria market in Palermo, Sicily. Tourists chow down on arancini for lunch, rubbing elbows with the local grandparents (known here as nonni) who are busy buying fresh fish and vegetables, all while vendors holler their prices to attract customers. It’s a chaotic scene — one befitting a market whose name loosely translates to “hubbub” or “noise.”

La Vucciria is the oldest market in the Sicilian capital. It sprawls throughout a network of alleys and piazzas in Palermo’s medieval Castellammare quarter. Though its origins are murky, the market is thought to have been in business for more than 700 years, giving it plenty of gravitas. And while the traditional ways may still be going strong, its advanced age hasn’t stopped it from having fun. 

Here, the streets are crowded with vendors displaying ripe red tomatoes, colossal purple eggplants, bunches of verdant fennel next to juicy pink peaches, and local vegetables galore. That includes tenerumi, the tender vine tendrils and leaves from cucuzza, a variety of squash native to the Mediterranean. Fishmongers, the ones shouting in Sicilian dialect, draw customers over to buy pristine, fresh calamari; octopus; and shrimp netted from nearby waters. Some stay for a quick meal of the catch of the day, deep-fried to order and served on the spot. Those in the know keep an eye out for the little red prawns from Mazara del Vallo in western Sicily, which are especially renowned. 

On a recent trip, I made it through the maze of tempting produce and fish to grab a bite at Minà Gastronomia & Spaghetteria, a tavola calda located at the entrance of La Vucciria that’s served market-goers since 1934. Tavola calda literally translates to “hot table” and refers to a category of casual, cafeteria-style restaurants, and Minà is one of the best in its class. All kinds of local specialties are displayed on trays behind glass for guests to choose from. I asked for the eggplant roll-ups, sarde a beccafico (sardines with breadcrumbs, pine nuts, raisins, and herbs), caponata, and Minà’s justly famous panelle (fried chickpea fritters).

As I devoured my feast off a paper plate — there’s no need to put on airs here — I watched waiters shuffle back and forth, delivering pasta from the kitchen to the plastic tables outside in the alley. Each dish looked so delicious, I was tempted to order seconds. But at La Vucciria, it’s best to save room for the delicious things to eat around every corner, from fresh-baked sfincione (a Sicilian-style pizza that resembles a thick focaccia) and quenching lemon granitas from kiosks and carts to the world-famous pani câ meusa (a gutsy sandwich of cow spleen and caciocavallo cheese) from Rocky Basile’s roving cart and the piping hot grilled meats and offal served directly off the grill at Da Jolly.

But while plenty do their shopping and noshing at La Vucciria in the daytime, it would be a mistake to miss the market after dark, when it takes on a more raucous air. It starts with aperitivo at Taverna Azzurra, where hip locals gather for cheap wine or beer, or a fritto misto at Al Tentacolo, a seafood spot on Piazza Caracciolo that’s open late, then segues into dancing as the market becomes a veritable open-air nightclub. You may hear groups of African drummers next to DJs spinning EDM all next to the crumbling Piazza Garraffello until the last revelers head home and the fishermen arrive with the catch of the day, ready to start all over again. 

Sampling all the street food at La Vucciria is the best way to take a bite out of Palermo. Then make sure to stay until after sunset so you don’t miss out on the fun. 

It’s the flavors. It’s the culture. It’s the hustle and bustle. It’s the hub, and it’s the bub that makes markets special. Because no matter which market you go to, you’ll get to experience life as both a tourist and a local all at once.

Global Tastemakers is a celebration of the best culinary destinations in the U.S. and abroad. We polled over 400 chefs, travel experts, food and travel writers, and wine pros from across the globe; including over 300 Best New Chef alums and our international editorial teams. We then entrusted those nominations to our Global Advisory Board to rank each category’s top winners. The purpose of this curation is to cultivate lists that feel surprising and a true discovery and taste of place. See all the winners at foodandwine.com/globaltastemakers.