To many people, one of the hard-won battle stripes of a skilled cook is the ability to turn out a creamy, professional-looking omelet in a relaxed batting of the eye. Given today’s accelerated daily pace, a speedily constructed, protein-rich omelet, either on its own or filled with any of an unlimited number of fillings, is often just the spur-of-the-moment, elegant sustenance we long for.

We are proud to offer our readers an exclusive lesson with Julia Child, who demonstrated her wicked way with an omelet in F&W’s test kitchen. As a valuable bonus, you will also find in this lesson a roster of the favorite omelet fillings of some of America’s greatest professional cooks.

No one has done more to introduce Americans to the accessibility of good food in the home than Julia Child, whose most recent book is the best-selling Julia Child & More Company. Mrs. Child’s highly professional method of making a rolled omelet is a bit tricky — the eggs are swirled around after they hit the pan, and shaking the pan causes the omelet to assume the perfect shape. If you practice a few times, you’ll acquire the technique for life. We’ve also provided an alternative method that you may wish to add to your repertoire of techniques.

Julia Child’s step-by-step instructions for making the perfect rolled omelet

For each individual omelet, use 3 eggs, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, a few grinds of black pepper, 1 tablespoon of water, and 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter, plus another to finish if desired.

1. In a small bowl, beat together for a moment the eggs, salt, pepper, and water; the difference between the yolks and whites should still be slightly perceptible.

2. Heat the omelet pan over high heat. Add the butter and swirl it around the bottom and sides of the pan. When the foaming has subsided and the butter has just begun to take on a golden tinge, add the eggs all at once. They should sizzle slightly as they hit the pan.

3. Let the eggs set slightly in the pan, a matter of a few seconds.

Now swirl the eggs around and around, redistributing them. After a few seconds, the eggs will begin to set again but will still be quite creamy. If you are using a filling, add it now, scattering it over the surface of the omelet.

4. Now hold the handle of the pan with both hands, thumbs up. Tilt the pan away from you, then pull the pan toward you in a series of straight, short jerks. The omelet will begin to roll toward you, shaping itself and becoming slightly more set as you jerk the pan.

(You may wish to practice this movement ahead of time, using dried beans instead of eggs, until you are comfortable with it.)

5. Now, using a fork, push the omelet down to the far side of the tilted pan. Holding the handle firmly, rap it sharply near its base with your other fist to be sure the eggs aren’t sticking. At this point, the edge of the omelet at the far side of the pan should start to curl up.

6. Grab a warmed plate with one hand. Holding the handle of the pan in your other hand, invert the omelet onto the center of the plate. Push it into shape if necessary, using the back of the fork, and spread a little butter over the top, if you like. Serve the omelet instantly. The entire sequence should take about one minute.

Julia Child’s omelet pan advice

Julia Child insists that the size of the pan is crucial if a 2- or 3-egg omelet is to set properly. Look for a skillet with a bottom diameter of 7 to 7 1/2 inches and sides about 2 inches high, so the pan can be swirled and jerked back and forth briskly without spilling the eggs. A nonstick surface is desirable.

If you buy a professional-type steel or iron omelet pan, season it first, following the maker’s instructions. If instructions are lacking, heat the pan until quite warm, scrub it thoroughly with steel wool and scouring powder, then rinse and dry it. Heat the pan again, rub it with vegetable oil; and let it sit overnight. Wipe the pan clean. The pan is now seasoned and ready to use. A seasoned pan should not be washed with soap — a mere wipe with a paper towel dipped in oil, or a rinse with warm water, should be sufficient to clean it.

If you should rinse the pan, dry it with a towel, then invert it over low stove heat for a few minutes to dry completely. Then rub it with a little oil and, with a paper towel, wipe it clean.

F&W’s “scrambled” and folded omelet method — aka omelet brouillé

In addition to Julia Child’s technique, you may wish to master this alternative method for cooking omelets.

Beat the eggs and prepare the pan as directed in steps 1 and 2 above. Allow the eggs to set for a few seconds, then shake the pan back and forth as you “scramble” the eggs slightly with the flat of a fork, making circular sweeps just above the surface of the pan to quickly mingle the set and liquid parts of the eggs. Instead of scattering the filling over the surface, place it in a band across the third of the omelet nearest the handle (the strip of filling should be at right angles to the handle).

Let the omelet cook, undisturbed, for a few seconds longer, until the top surface is almost, but got quite, set. Then use a fork to fold the third of the omelet neatest the handle over the center. (This will enclose the filling if the omelet is a filled one.) Hold the tilted pan above a plate, let about an inch of the omelet slide onto the plate (the far, unfolded side), then, pushing with the pan, invert the omelet onto the plate it will be folded into thirds. If necessary, pat it into shape with a fork, and, if you like, spread the top lightly with butter.

How to fill an omelet, according to chefs

Now that you have been directed onto the right paths for turning out perfect, creamy omelets, you can fill them as your mood and appetite egg you on. We’ve asked a connoisseur’s clutch of food pros for their preferred omelet fillings, generously sampled below.

Everyone seems to have a favorite. Stanley Marcus (of Neiman-Marcus fame), whose outspoken and thoughtful book, Quest for the Best, voices his concern for the decline of quality in consumer fields while applauding what’s left of the worthy, describes, for example, a piperade he enjoyed in a little-known inn outside of Paris, L’Auberge de la Moutière, run by M. Maurice Carrère. The fillings we offer range from simple, uncooked embellishments to some fairly elaborate preparations.

Once you have tried a few, strike out and start to invent your own — an omelet is a fine way to use up leftovers.

Jacques Pépin’s herb omelets

To fill 4 omelets, chop about ½ cup fresh herbs, such as parsley, chives, chervil, or tarragon, or a mixture in whatever proportions you prefer, plus extra herbs for garnish. Whisk the herbs into the beaten eggs for the omelets. Cook 4 individual rolled or folded omelets as directed above. Sprinkle some additional fresh herbs atop each omelet after rolling or folding it, and serve at once.

F&W’s basic cheese omelet

For 4 omelets, use about 1 cup grated flavorful cheese, such as Swiss, cheddar, Parmesan, Monterey Jack, or Gruyère — please your own palate in the matter of mildness or sharpness.

Make 4 individual rolled or folded omelets as directed above, sprinkling a share of the grated cheese over each just before rolling or folding it. If you’re using very firm cheese, you may wish to sprinkle it over the surface of the omelet while the eggs are still quite liquid, in order to give the cheese time to meld into the eggs and to melt slightly. If you like, sprinkle additional cheese over each omelet just before serving them, piping hot.

F&W’s easy smoked salmon filling

To fill 4 omelets, cut about ¼ pound smoked salmon into thin slivers. In a small bowl, toss the slivers of smoked salmon with pepper to taste, a few drops of lemon juice, and 1 1/2 tablespoons of chives or scallions. Make and fill 4 individual omelets, either rolling them or folding them, and optionally, top each omelet with a dollop of sour cream before serving them promptly.

Julie Dannenbaum’s sorrel and cream omelet

Whisk about 1/2 cup of stemmed and shredded sorrel or watercress into the eggs for four rolled or folded omelets. Heat 1/3 cup of heavy cream in a small pan until nearly simmering, then keep it warm over very low heat. Cook 4 individual rolled or folded omelets and when the omelets are finished, cut three small slits in the top of each, using a small knife. Pour a little of the hot cream into each slit, and serve the omelets immediately.

Perla Meyers’s Brie and herb omelets 

For 4 omelets, use 1/2 cup ripe Brie with crust removed before measuring, as well as 3 to 4 tablespoons of snipped chives or finely minced dill or parsley. In a small bowl, use a wooden spoon to mash together the Brie, whichever herb you are using, and salt and pepper to taste. Spoon a share of the filling into each omelet just before rolling or folding it. Serve at once.

Mrs. Meyers also likes the counterpoint of soft goat cheese with crumbled dried thyme or mint.

Jacques Pépin’s potato omelet — aka omelet paysanne

Jacques Pépin makes a potato omelet pancake-style in the following fashion. It will serve 2 or 3. He first sautés in a 9-inch skillet 3 strips of blanched, cut-up bacon until brown and removes them from the pan. (To blanch, boil the bacon about 5 minutes in a generous amount of water, then drain and rinse it.) Next, he adds a medium-size raw potato, cut into thin slices, to the bacon fat and cooks them until golden on both sides. The sliced and well washed white part of a leek is then added to the pan and tossed until wilted.

About 5 or 6 eggs, beaten with a little salt and some pepper, are poured over these ingredients and the omelet is cooked pancake-style: cook the first side undisturbed until the top is barely set, then flip the omelet (or invert it onto a plate, then slip, uncooked side down, back into the pan), and cook until done to your taste. You could, if you wish, use the bacon-potato-leek mixture as a filling for a rolled or folded omelet as well.

Michael James’ soubise omelet

Michael James recommends an omelet filled with a light onion-rice purée or soubise. Cheese may be added to this preparation, or you may top a layer of soubise with a few just-cooked peas before rolling the omelet. 

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring 2 peeled and sliced medium onions, 3 tablespoons of raw rice, a pinch of nutmeg, and 1 1/4 cups of chicken stock to a simmer uncovered until the rice and onions are very tender. Purée the mixture in a blender, food processor, or food mill, leaving some texture. Add salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste, then fill four omelets.

Nathalie Dupree’s dessert omelet soufflé

An easily perfected technique advocated by Ms. Dupree produces an omelet with a wonderfully light texture. This recipe should be considered a basic one which can be varied in many ways. Top or fill it with your choice of either ¼ cup of good orange marmalade or fruit preserves; sliced strawberries or other fresh fruit; sweetened purée of ripe pears or peaches; or chocolate sauce. 

Preheat the oven to 400°. Beat 3 egg yolks with 1 tablespoon of sugar until the mixture is thick and light. Stir in a tablespoon of heavy cream and your choice of liqueur and orange zest; rum or brandy; or vanilla.

Beat 3 egg whites until they form stiff peaks. Stir a large spoonful of the whites into the yolk mixture, then, with a spatula, gently fold the remaining whites into the combined mixture. Heat 1 tablespoon of butter over high heat in a 7- or 8-inch omelet pan that has an ovenproof handle.

When it starts to sizzle, gently pour in the egg mixture and cook over moderate heat until the bottom has set and is lightly browned, about 45 seconds to a minute. Set the pan in the preheated oven and cook until the top is set, about 5 minutes. 

Remove the pan from the oven and slide the omelet onto a warmed platter. Gently spread ¼ cup of one of the optional toppings or fillings over the omelet and serve it open, or gently fold it almost in half, using a spatula. Sprinkle the top with 1 or 2 tablespoons of confectioners’ sugar and serve immediately.

Nathalie Dupree’s savory omelet soufflé

The recipe above is infinitely variable — the omelet may be flavored as you wish, the filling may be omitted, and it may be folded or left open. Here are some delicious savory variations for courses other than dessert.

Omit the sugar from the egg mixture and season it to taste with salt, freshly ground pepper, and chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, thyme, or chives. A dash of ground ginger or other spice works well if you’re using a vegetable purée as a filling (after cooking, spread the omelet with 1/4 to 1/3 cup puréed cooked, seasoned, and buttered carrot, onion, or spinach, then fold it or not).

Another possibility is grated cheese (Gruyère, cheddar, or Parmesan), alone or with a vegetable purée. If you really want to experiment, Ms. Dupree suggests folding a vegetable purée into the beaten egg yolks just before folding in the beaten whites. This produces something akin to a light vegetable soufflé.

F&W’s apple omelet flambé

Heat 3 tablespoons of unsalted butter in a skillet over medium heat until foamy. Add peeled slices of 2 tart cooking apples, tossing them until coated, then cooking over moderate heat, uncovered, until they begin to soften. Toss them from time to time.

Add a tablespoon of Cognac or brandy, stand back, and light with a match to flame off the spirits. Remove the pan from the heat. When the flames die, add 2 tablespoons of fruit preserves and toss the apple slices until they are coated. Fill 4 individual omelets and serve them hot.

Omelets are a leftovers lover’s best friend

Evan Jones, whose A Food Lover’s Companion is wonderful late-night company, offers these final thoughts on omelets:

“As a writer with an office convenient to the kitchen, I sometimes cook a light lunch, and it is as apt as not to be based on any leftovers that may be in the refrigerator. Interesting omelets. often almost impossible to reproduce, result — especially when there remains some of the pungently flavored country ham we try to keep on hand much of the year. I use scraps of aged ham from Tennessee (or another hill-farm region) to perk up combinations of cooked vegetables chosen for contrast in color. There is usually some frozen duxelles — chopped and cooked mushrooms — too, and this goes well with bland ingredients like cooked chicken, or it adds a certain something to cooked mussels, sometimes to shrimp.

Flaked salt cod, black olives, and crumbs of feta cheese make one of our favorite, faintly Mediterranean, omelet fillings. A good omelet, I’m tempted to say, is like a readable anthology — its contents as varied as one’s moods. Putting together a spur-of-the-moment filling is a creative challenge.”