An early Easter is a mixed blessing. Good to have Lent over and done with, but it is a bit of a false dawn. When Easter is in April, there is a chance of a few early fruits and vegetables, but March is basically winter. Tradition was that you did not eat eggs in Lent, thus causing an abundance by the time Easter arrived. I like symbols and I like tradition, for all my irreverence. You might just be able to buy new season’s lamb, but I wouldn’t bother. It will be pale and sweet but without much flavour and will cost a bomb. Much better to buy a cut from a beast at least eight months old, with darker, richer meat more appropriate to the winter weather. It will also stand up to the robust seasoning I advocate. A shoulder is the perfect joint for slow roasting: the meat will be fully cooked but still juicy and flavoursome. If cooking new season’s meat, reduce the cooking time by 1 hour.

Wine to serve with the slow roast shoulder of lamb: This hearty, flavourful dish would be enhanced by a robust wine, either a Cabernet-Sauvignon-dominated red from Bordeaux or a Syrah-based blend from the Rhône or Languedoc-Roussillon. Good examples of both can also be found throughout the New World.

Next, why not try more great recipes from the House & Garden recipe archive?