The Anarkali suit has a rich history, steeped in love, family conflicts, and royal elegance. Known for their timeless appeal, these stunning outfits continue to be a favourite in the 21st century, transcending eras and maintaining their charm. When we think of the term Anarkali, we can’t help but recall the iconic Madhubala from Mughal-e-Azam, who danced her heart out for Prince Salim (Dilip Kumar). The legacy of Anarkali is rooted in Mughal history, where it symbolises love, desire, and beauty, immortalized in the courtesans’ dazzling attire.
The flared, full-length suits, named after Anarkali, a courtesan who fell in love with Emperor Akbar’s son, Prince Salim, gained popularity during the Mughal era. These elegant ensembles were crafted using luxurious fabrics like velvet and silk and adorned with intricate embroidery, zari work, cut dana, and resham work. The vibrant colours, coupled with the exquisite detailing, set a regal and flamboyant tone, drawing inspiration from Mughal art and architecture.

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Elements of Anarkali design
The Anarkali ensemble is typically floor or calf-length, with a long frock-style kurta that hugs the waist before expanding dramatically into a flared bottom. This design adds a touch of drama and elegance, making it the perfect statement piece. Traditionally made of velvet and silk, modern-day Anarkalis are crafted from materials like cotton, organza, sheer fabrics, and brocade to ensure fluidity and sleek drapes. The rich detailing, inspired by Mughal culture, includes gold thread work, zardozi, stone embellishments, and paisley motifs, often featured in royal ceremonies and weddings.

The origin of ‘court dresses’
The name Anarkali traces back to a heart-wrenching love story from the Mughal era. Anarkali, a royal courtesan, was said to have been buried alive for daring to fall in love with Prince Salim. The tragic tale of love and betrayal immortalized Anarkali’s wardrobe. Initially, these garments were known as mujra dresses, worn by dancers who performed the mujra dance for the royal court. Later, the garments were named in tribute to Anarkali, who was one of the most famous performers of the dance.

Anarkalis in Bollywood
The Anarkali suit has had a significant impact on Indian fashion, especially after its portrayal in Bollywood. The iconic Mughal-e-Azam made Anarkali a household name, with Madhubala’s flawless performance and elegant look captivating audiences worldwide. The timeless appeal of the Anarkali was further cemented in 1972 with Meena Kumari’s green Anarkali in Pakeezah, complete with golden accents.

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Since then, Anarkali kurtas have undergone a major transformation. They are often paired with contemporary styles like embroidered koti jackets with plunging necklines. Renowned Bollywood designers such as Ritu Kumar, Tarun Tahiliani, and Sabyasachi have continued to keep the Anarkali style alive, blending tradition with modernity, making it a celebrated trend across India.
Anarkalis today: A modern take on tradition
Gone are the days when Anarkali suits were only seen at grand weddings and royal ceremonies. The modern Anarkali has undergone a makeover, offering fresh, innovative design options that maintain an effortless charm. With statement belts, capes, traditional jackets, and sleek choker dupattas, today’s Anarkalis are a mix of contemporary flair and timeless elegance.

The Anarkali, with its flattering, free-flowing silhouette, has become a staple in every wardrobe. Whether it’s a dinner date, wedding, sangeet, or even a cocktail party, the Anarkali suit remains a versatile and cherished piece. It represents not only ease and comfort but also carries with it a sense of history, love, and elegance. It’s no wonder that women today are proudly flaunting their ethnic charm and embracing the legacy of Anarkali with a modern twist.